Six Ways To Upgrade Your Wardrobe, According To Menswear Designers
By Corey Kelly for AskMen.com
Monday, July 10th, 2017 marked the official beginning of New York Fashion Week: Men’s fifth season. The four day event provided a platform for American menswear designers to showcase their latest collections to an international audience of press and buyers. Following an almost month-long string of fashion weeks happening in London, Milan, Paris, as well as Pitti Uomo in Florence, the New York men’s shows round out what seems to be a non-stop sartorial showdown.
“We are now in season five and New York Fashion Week: Men’s is clearly established on the international calendar,” says Steven Kolb, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). “It has come to be known for supporting young, directional talent with fashion week opportunities and at the same highlighting great American men’s sportswear which is the foundation of the market.”
With only a few of the major designers and brands displaying their collections at satellite locations throughout the city, a majority of them presented at the state-of-the-art Skylight Clarkson Square studio space in New York’s SoHo district. However, for up-and-comers unable to afford the substantial costs of a show of their own, New York Men’s Day, a showcase for emerging talent, unofficially kicked off the week at Dune Studios in New York’s Financial District.
“New York Men’s Day (NYMD) has always supported and underwritten emerging talent in menswear,” says Erin Hawker, owner and founder of Agentry PR and New York Men’s Day (NYMD). “We need to give younger talent a chance to show what’s happening in America right now. Sometimes, the larger brands take the limelight because of their budgets for shows, marketing, and advertising dollars. Our mission from day one, in 2014, was to showcase the emerging brands and give them a voice.”
Thanks to New York Men’s Day and the CFDA’s incubator programs for emerging designers, New York Fashion Week: Men’s is truly a combination of fresh, new talent mixed with the old establishment of American menswear.
But, to make sense of it all, we’ve done all of the dirty work by researching the latest collections to present you with just six key menswear designers you’ll need to be wearing next spring. Not only did we chat with them about their Spring 2018 lines, we show you how to get your hands on next spring’s trends right now.
David Hart
New York Men’s Day (NYMD) officially kicked off NYFW: Men’s with an incredible lineup of twelve emerging designers who presented their Spring 2018 collections at Dune Studios in New York’s Financial District. David Hart, a menswear designer who manages to stand out from the pack, presented a vibrant and playful men’s collection inspired by Cuban culture.
“This collection is a celebration of the world's view of Cuba and not a literal one”, David explains. “I personally have never been to Cuba, so this collection is based on an idea of Cuba I've been exposed to through books, media, and cinema as an American.”
Beautifully tailored suits, striped blazers, pastel-toned trousers and tops, not to mention the occasional banana print, dominated the collection. But, Hart’s fine gauge knitted polos will surely be a hit come next spring.
“Our fine gauge knits are the perfect addition to any guy’s wardrobe”, David explains. They can be worn with jeans or khakis and can also be worn under a suit for a timeless look.”
George Sotelo, Thorsun
The unlikely pairing of swimwear and architecture is undoubtedly a winning combination for designer George Sotelo. His contemporary swimwear brand, Thorsun, combines the visual references of modern architecture with the ease and wearability of American sportswear.
“In general, I continue to be inspired by architecture as well as modernism”, explains Sotelo. “For Spring 2018, my inspiration was island life and the fantasy setting of a cocktail party. The Botanical Garden House in Porto, Portugal is my ideal setting for a pool party. However, I was also very inspired by the beauty of Bali, the paddy fields, and the John Hardy House.”
Thorsun’s signature swim shorts are considered wardrobe staples for the heat-seeking jet-setter. Available in two unique fits, including Apollo (more tailored) and Titan (more athletic), the brand will introduce a new selection of prints, thanks to popular demand from customers and retailers.
“We’ve had high demand for our shorts in micro prints which have always been popular” explains Sotelo. “But, next spring, we’ve made the larger and bolder prints more wearable and approachable by using tone-on-tone colors and designs.”
Sotelo’s favorite item from next spring’s collection is a mint green and navy blue button-down shirt in the brand’s popular Maze print. This introduction of shirts marks new territory for the brand. Made from breathable lightweight cotton, the selection of short-sleeve button-downs transition easily from a casual day at the beach or pool into the evening at a bar or lounge.
Donrad Duncan, EFM Engineered for Motion
For award-winning designer Donrad Duncan, the concept of “athluxury” is at the forefront of his fashion line, EFM Engineered For Motion. The brand continues a steady following of athletes and urban professionals seeking sophisticated clothing to complement their active lifestyles. Next spring’s collection doesn’t fail to impress. Thanks to its range of sporty garments, it seems perfectly designed for an urbanite who’s always on the go.
“For Spring 2018, I was inspired by the modern city dweller”, Duncan explains. “He’s a man who has freedom, fluidity, structure, and a growing sense of self.”
The collection’s must-haves include the Stretch Dobby Blazer. Elegant and structured, it’s incredibly lightweight and designed for comfort. We also love the tech bomber jacket for its water-repelling exterior and travel friendly design.
Miansai, Michael Saiger: Founder & Creative Director
We just can’t get enough of Miansai, a contemporary accessories brand founded and designed by Michael Saiger. His recent travels to Cuba inspired the brand’s Spring 2018 collection which debuted during NYFW: Men’s.
‘The collection pays an unmistakable homage to Art Deco architecture and a juxtaposed a sense of escapism derived from my recent travels to Havana & the Vinales region of Cuba”, Michael explains. “Joining the two concepts through a lens that invites rich colors, clean lines, sleek shapes that are quintessential to the Art Deco aesthetic, each piece combines a familiar sense of structure with an unchartered take on color.”
For those of you who tread lightly in the jewelry department, the collection also includes simpler items. The brand’s signature rope casing bracelets are an easy beginner’s piece to include into your wardrobe. They’re a great everyday pieces that looks effortless and can be worn at all times.
“Personally I love the new palm necklace, which was inspired by a limited edition vintage Cohiba cigar band,” Michael says. “Also, the cigar band necklace and ring, which were inspired by vintage cigar bands from Cuba. They’re really different and cool.”
Matiere, Scot Shandalove
“In a time of reflection, both internally and externally, literally and metaphorically, we continue to examine the core ethos and foundation of the brand Matiere”, says Scot Shandalove, one of the brand’s co-founders. “It is a time to embrace the technical future while continuing to be respectful of our origins. With the radically changing climate and elements, we will continue to push boundaries moving the needle forward, designing and developing a future of technical sustainability.”
Known for elevating classic men’s garments with luxurious materials, Matiere’s Spring 2018 collection continues to please with sartorial success. From casual separates dripping in the best textiles to well-designed outerwear made to withstand Mother Nature’s elements, there’s bound to be something for everyone.
“Honestly, most of our collection is balanced for the everyday guy to easily incorporate pieces”, he says. “But, the details and the fabrics elevate the look in an effortless way.”
Parke & Ronen
Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel, the design duo behind men’s resort brand Parke & Ronen, never fail to deliver vacation-ready swimwear and apparel. Every season, their collections are perfectly suited for summering anywhere from the shores of Miami to the beaches of Mykonos. This year marks their 20th anniversary, so they’ve updated some of their best archival pieces for Spring 2018.
“We have these amazing 5” inseam lambskin suede cargo Holler shorts”, they explain. “It’s a favorite silhouette from our greatest hits collection archive. We’ve never done them in suede. However, they look amazing and feel like “but-tah!”
Pretty much everything from a vintage-inspired suede jacket to the variety of super retro swim shorts ooze a Seventies-vibe reminiscent of the time of John Denver’s Rocky Mountain High. Interestingly enough, the song inspired the collection’s theme.
“The collection draws inspiration from the lyrics of John Denver’s song, with an emphasis on the lyrics “serenity of a clear blue mountain lake”, they explain.“Nostalgic to the times of our youth when John Denver was usheringin pop-awareness of the earth, nature and unique beauty of Rocky Mountain summer’s led us to create a collection inspired by the idea of Americana as seen through rose colored lenses.”
