A Preview Of New York Fashion Week: Men's
Photo courtesy of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)
These Are The Major Trends Heading To NYFW: Men’s
By Corey Kelly for AskMen.com
The Spring 2017 men’s shows in London, Milan and Paris — not to mention Pitti Uomo in Florence — have recently wrapped up. But round three of New York Fashion Week: Men’s will begin on July 11, 2016. The four-day event will provide a platform for American menswear designers to expose their work to an international audience of press and buyers.
“It continues to capture the spirit of [American] menswear, says Steven Kolb, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), which organizes the event. “We see new brands coming on board, and brands rotating from previous seasons. The mix of designers is quite eclectic. And as we evolve, I see the core of [the event] being about discovery.”
Many brands and designers will present their collections at Skylight Clarkson Square, a state-of-the-art studio space in West SoHo. But thanks to the success of last season’s event and a growing interest in men’s fashion, the event will extend its reach into newer territory.
“We’re expanding our show space to Cadillac House and launching our Retail Lab with Timo Weiland as our first designer,” says Kolb. “Samsung is supporting eight young brands, including Matiere and Second/Layer.”
But before the madness of the week begins, we reached out to fifteen menswear designers ranging from up-and-comers to big names to get a sneak peek of the hottest trends. Here is your New York Fashion Week: Men’s first look.
Image courtesy of Perry Ellis
Perry Ellis - Go Anywhere Dressing
It’s pretty uncommon for the average Joe to find himself sartorially-prepared at every moment. But Michael Maccari, creative director of Perry Ellis, has one helluva solution: His Spring 2017 collection for the American brand will introduce a range of well-designed garments that will effectively bridge the gap between versatility and function.
“We’re constantly looking at new blended fabrics of familiar fibers and those that contain performance properties,” says Maccari. “There are so many great blends and performance attributes built into [this] collection; some are more obvious with sport-inspired styling and color-blocking while others are a pleasant surprise found in less expected places — like sport coats and dress pants”
Our favorites include a selection of hybrid apparel like short-sleeved knits that easily double as t-shirts and lightweight outerwear versatile enough to wear across seasons. These items perfectly exemplify what Maccari defines as “go-anywhere dressing” — clothing designed to transition from one situation into the next.
Image courtesy of PLAC/Seung Bae King
PLAC - The Shirt Jacket
New York Men’s Day (NYMD), a popular showcase for up-and-coming designers, opens the week at Industria Superstudio with an incredible line-up of twelve talented hopefuls. One name to remember is Jae Wan Park — the founder of the contemporary brand PLAC.
Inspired by the artwork of David Hockney, PLAC's upcoming collection will fashionably redefine the true meaning of art and commerce. “We’ve re-interpreted David Hockney’s work to make [it] more contemporary," says Park.
The collection incorporates a range of must-have items, including Park’s favorite: the shirt jacket. “[They’re] one of our key pieces,” he says. “You can easily wear [it] as a shirt and jacket — it’s seasonless! That’s what most men are looking for.”
Image courtesy of David Hart
David Hart - 1960s Surf Culture
David Hart, another New York Men’s Day hopeful, has come pretty far since exclusively designing ties and pocket squares back in 2009. Earlier this year, he wowed show-goers with a wearable fall line inspired by the Harlem Renaissance — complete with dancing models bearing saxophones and smiles.
For Spring 2017, prepare to hang ten into '60s surf culture thanks to a vibrant collection influenced by the work of veteran photographer LeRoy Grannis. Not only will Hart’s banlon-inspired merino polo shirts and knitwear become a hit with American buyers and press, they’ll also become targets of fast-fashion knock-off culture. “The David Hart collection,” announces Hart. “Copied by Zara, Topman and H&M — coming in two weeks to a store near you!"
Image courtesy of Max n’ Chester
Max n’ Chester - Japanese Fabrics
Peter Trainor — the brains, vision and pulse behind contemporary menswear brand Max 'n Chester — understands the power of impeccable quality and a perfect fit. Showing alongside PLAC and David Hart at New York Men’s Day, his upcoming spring collection evokes a feeling of expressing one’s individual style.
“The beauty behind our collection is that any guy can wear our pieces,” he says. “We have men from various ages wearing Max 'n Chester. For as long as we're delivering the right product with the perfect fit, fashion's ever-changing landscape won't affect us.”
“Being that our partners are a Japanese operated factory based in China, we have access to Japan’s superior manufacturing techniques and finishes,” he continues. “The technology and machinery used to produce each piece is meticulously made in a traditional Japanese fashion through every step of the process.”
Image courtesy of Private Policy
Private Policy — Socially Conscious Style
Touched by an award-winning news report about slave labor in the Southeast Asian fishing industry, designers Haoran Qu and Siying Li aim to bring awareness and hope through their fashion brand, Private Policy.
“We explore symbols of imprisonment, restriction, and pain,” explains Li. “The collection becomes emotional — with garment vocabulary of color, texture, pattern, and silhouette. We continue to push the boundaries between high-end luxury and youth-wear.”
“In [our] Spring 2017 collection, we utilized modern technology to enhance our vision, such as digital print, laser cut and binding plastic,” she continues. “The connectivity, technology enables, allow us to be aware of what is going on around the world, every second and everywhere. Also, it helps us to share our creative and progressive ideas.”
Image courtesy of EFM/ArchiExpo
EFM — Versatile and Breezy Sportswear
We just can’t get enough of EFM (Engineered For Motion), a luxury sportswear brand founded by award-winning menswear designer Donrad Duncan. Designed for the global traveler in mind, his upcoming collection evokes an air of simplicity and elegance.
“[For Spring 2017], I was energized by the lengthening of daylight and the desire to be outdoors,” says Duncan. “Spring and summer are seasons that inspire freedom, movement [and] comfort. You shed anything that restricts or confines.”
Expect to see lightweight blazers and trousers that are coordinated and designed for traveling. They pack well [and] provide ease of movement,” he says. “We have blurred the lines between formal and casual, so these are pieces that can be worn all day and for multiple occasions.”
Image courtesy of N-p-Elliott
N-p-Elliott — Progressive Sportswear
Nicholas Elliott, the mastermind behind avant-garde streetwear brand N-p-Elliott, knows a thing or two about targeting his ideal audience. “You need to appeal to a broad demographic, but also to remain on-message,” he says. “[My team and I] try to produce smaller runs of clothes but [we] also try to make them special. Whether that is within the cut or fabrication of each piece, we want something unique within everything.”
Inspired by the philosopher Voltaire, his collection for next spring produced some interesting yet very wearable results: “We’ve made '90s-style boxer shorts with side seam pockets that can be worn on the outside rather than hidden behind pants,” he says.“They’re so simple and really easy to team with existing pieces in one’s wardrobe.
Image courtesy of Ovadia & Sons
Ovadia & Sons — Bohemian Vibes
According to Ariel and Shimon Ovadia, the twin brothers behind the ever-popular Ovadia & Sons label, their Spring 2017 collection is looking “a little hippie, a little Rasta”. Expect the usual staples that made them famous — strong outerwear and easy separates — only this time mixed with a funky, bohemian twist for spring. Their newly-designed souvenir jacket, a favorite for both twins, is sure to become next year’s must-have item. But if none of this information is news to your ears, expect their collaboration with New Era to drop on the day of their show.
Image courtesy of Matiere
Matiere— Sun-Faded Blues and Seafarer Blues
The “sun-faded hues, seafarer blues and neutrals” of San Francisco’s physical landscape inspired Scot Shandalove’s upcoming collection for his brand, Matiere. “[Jake Zeitlin and I] designed the entire collection based on luxury classics with a small twist,” he says."The hope is that consumers will replace a lot of their spring essentials with this collection.”
During the brand's afternoon presentation, expect to see a range of top-quality must-haves for the everyday guy. From casual separates like Japanese yarn-dyed crepe t-shirts to well-designed outerwear (high-density nylon bomber jacket, anyone?), there’s bound to be something for everyone.
Image courtesy of Nautica
Nautica— French Riviera All The Way
Prepare to embark on a voyage to the French Riviera during Nautica’s Spring 2017 presentation. Appropriately titled, "The Tailored Traveler," the collection will be filled with the brand’s updated nautical classics.
“The fine gauge knits from our collection are great layering pieces to sport all season-long,” says Steve McSween, vice president of Men’s Global Design. “The soft blazers give a versatile staple to enhance any look. And our shorts feature an easy fit celebrating a Bermuda length.”
Following the presentation, the company will sell one key item from its Spring 2017 collection online and at its newly-opened flagship store in New York City.
Image courtesy of Zachary Prell
Zachery Prell — Reinvented American Sportswear
“For Spring 2017, I’m inspired by a sense of renewal,” says Zachary Prell, founder of his eponymous menswear line. “We had just hired [our] new VP of Design, Colin McNair, who for the last 10 years was senior design director at John Varvatos. I thought about how Colin would significantly expand our collection and infuse it with a fresh design perspective.”
Those fresh ideas produced a modern take on American sportswear: The upcoming spring collection is filled with textured knits, versatile outerwear and super-luxe separates that any man can easily – and quickly — incorporate into his wardrobe.
“Advancements in technology, e-commerce and social media have influenced consumer behavior and shifted buying habits,” says Prell. “Today, customers want instant gratification. It’s no longer accurate to assume a customer will see or read about a product online and be satisfied waiting six months to purchase it.”
Gilt has exclusively partnered with the brand to launch a full-priced, exclusive 'buy now, wear now' capsule collection that will coincide with Zachary Prell's Spring 2017 presentation.
Image courtesy of Thorsun
Thorsun — Mesoamerican Influence
“Mesoamerican and contemporary art have played a significant role in my inspiration for not only [my] Spring 2017 collection, but for [my brand] as a whole,” says George Sotelo, founder of Thorsun, a contemporary men’s and women’s swim line. “The deeper I dive into Mesoamerican art, the more I see modernist elements that parallel the contemporary art world today.”
Next spring, get ready for his brand’s signature swim short to be offered in two unique fits: the Apollo (more tailored) and the Titan (more athletic). “We have worked hard to create and offer a short that not only seamlessly fits into a man’s lifestyle, but improves and enhances his experiences as well,” says Sotelo. “We’ve done this by adding features like extra-deep pockets to prevent your belongings from falling out when you sit down and hidden internal security pockets. The shorts easily go from the beach to the bar.”
Image courtesy of C.P. Company
C.P. Company — Performance Meets Style
“For spring 2017, C.P. Company enters its next phase of innovation by incorporating athleisure, which is reflected in the trousers and the cut of the sweatshirts,” says the C. P. Company Design Team. “[The] collection offers a variety of functional, yet sophisticated daily wear. The iconic NYCRA bomber jacket, parka, and tailored-fit blazers use our trademark fabric, which is an ultra-stretch, water-resistant nylon fabric. These are perfect for men who seek both high-performance and style.”
Image courtesy of Todd Snyder
Todd Snyder - Vintage Monaco Cool
Inspired by vintage '1950s Monaco auto racing, Todd Snyder named his upcoming spring collection Grand Prix. “I was looking through images and books and fell in love with the style and sophistication,” he says. “I was also inspired by the uniforms and racing stripes.”
The collection, brimming with activewear, marks new territory for Snyder. “Activewear is very important this season,” he says. “And it will continue to be in the years ahead. You’ll see this in outerwear, where we use fabrics that are breathable and waterproof. We’re also using a lot of stretch fabrics — stretch chino, stretch suiting and stretch denim. The lines are really getting blurred between sport and sportswear.”
His favorite item from the collection – a tipped terrycloth t-shirt – easily pairs with shorts or dress pants and sneakers. Let's hope it gets released early:
“We have a small collection of eight items that will only be available for one week after our show begins,” he says. “It's pretty cool to be able to buy immediately. I know I get very impatient waiting for my collection to be available in stores a year after we show them. Who doesn’t love immediate gratification?”
Image courtesy of Parke & Ronen